henry —
blame culture
In my opinion, climbing is a beautiful sport because success is never guaranteed, it's earned. No matter the level of the climber or the difficulty of the climb, falling off a climb is always an option. All you have to do is let go and lean back! Climbing is a stressful activity because failure is only ever one “foot slip” away. As a result, counterproductive mantras have become common in climbing dialog. Statements such as “if I was stronger then …” or “I would have sent if …'' are not constructive or helpful. Climbing is a game of problem-solving and self-reflection.
With that said, my biggest pet peeve in climbing is when people claim that the only reason they fell is because their foot slipped. Excuse me, friend, but who controls your foot? Did you fall because you let your foot slip? Or did your foot slip because you were already falling? It burns me up to see individuals avoid responsibility for their own movements. Additionally, I find it extremely arrogant to claim that external factors are the sole reason for failure. It's not me or “the decisions I made,” it's: “the conditions, because I'm not strong enough, because my foot slipped.”
Observation is the key to learning about yourself, other people, your environment.
Blame prevents observation.
Passing up on an opportunity to learn is a waste of time.
momentum
coming soon
loosers weepers 8b+, the cirque ✅
Ok. The route is short. LW described in one word: violent.
Probably less than 10 ascents. 9 bolts and anchor. 3 move crux. 1 star in the guidebook.
I first tried this route in 2020 because there were draws on it. I surprised myself by making it to the crux in a few hangs. It starts off really bouldery and punchy. “Damn am I really about to climb 5.14?” I thought as I narrowed in on the headwall. Then the gravity got turned up. Or rather, the holds turned upside down. The crux revolves around two underclings, one is only big enough for me to fit 2 fingers and the other is made of glue. Delightful. After gaining both underclings and building my feet, the next move is no gimme; I have to reach full span to a weirdly slotted ledge. After latching said-ledge I find myself awkwardly meandering up some unique “pockets” and an interesting slab to finish.
I was eager to get back on the route again after returning to sport climbing in November ‘23 and wondered how the crux would feel after years of bouldering. I'll say this much, off the hang it felt like butter and from the dirt it felt like butt…*errr*!
When it warmed up again in February ‘24 I tried the route again after months of no contact. From the dirt, I fell nearly sticking the ledge move. Didn't move my hips right. Rehearse.
Send.
The most interesting part of the process was how different the crux felt each time I returned to the route. At first it felt doable but near limit and injurious. Then it felt sub-limit but difficult to replicate. Then it felt easy.
Additionally, the first crux move is probably my favorite move on the route because I know how different it used to feel. A large lock off to a 2 finger undercling (that I crimp) started off being A) difficult to reach, then B) difficult to move out of, and is now C) purely easy.
Yeah it sucks, Boo-Hoo.
henry ritterpusch